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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.